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Wood Propellor kits designed by Vintage1 (EZone name)
EZone discussion thread on building your own prop, by Vintage1
LEGAL DISCLAIMER: These propellors, when properly assembled, are designed to fly. However, customers use these propellors
at their own risk. The customers accept all liability for their use, including liability for injuring others should their
props fail. These propellors can fail when under power. Take all precautions necessary to prevent injury from a broken propellor
blade. Do not allow any person to be in front of the propellor or within the propellor arc.
A rotating propeller can cause serious personal injury. Follow these instructions carefully at the flying site and at
the workbench.
1. Assemble the propellor carefully, using quality wood glues and insuring there are no voids in the layers. Clamp
securely until the adhesive is fully cured. Balance the propellor with a high quality balancer. Test the propellor in a
safe area prior to flying. If the propellor causes a vibration, do not use it until properly carved and/or balanced.
2. Install the propeller using the correct prop nut and washer with the airfoil side forward and securely tighten with
a wrench. Recheck after each flight.
3. Use only on electric powered aircraft.
4. Keep spectators at least 20 feet away from and out of the arc of a rotating propeller.
5. Wear safety glasses and hand protection when operating the motor. Do not permit any objects to touch a turning propeller.
Always remain clear of the propeller arc.
6. DO NOT stop the propeller with your hand or other object.
7. Inspect the propeller after each flight. Discard any propeller that has nicks, scratches or any other visible defect.
DO NOT alter, or in any way modify a propeller beyond it's design.
8. It is strongly suggested that propeller tips be painted in order to increase visibility while turning.
9. Do not exceed safe RPM for your propellor. To determine safe RPM you can use 65,000/diameter (in inches). Each
prop kit includes a safe RPM on the label.
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| Use 3mm or 1/8" stick to align laminations |
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| Stacked laminations |
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| Rough sanding |
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| Similar to other slow fly props |
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| Done. Nice additon to an early flier |
Wood propellors from the early years of flying are shaped differently than modern propellors. There were several different
shapes as each airplane designer tried to get the most from his machine to win a race, have more range, be more capable in
combat, or simply just to get the plane in the air!
We who have built some of the early planes have long sought a means to have a scale propellor. Vint listened to many
of us on the EZone discussion group and decided that designing a propellor should not be that hard. He graciously provided
the drawings necessary for the production of these kits for early planes. Each shape is described by the type of airplane
it is intended for.
Vint's EZone thread on how to produce a prop is included above. Also, free downloads of the drawings are offered here
as well for those who want to work from wood blanks instead of laser cut pieces.
If you have a need for a shape that is not listed here please drop us an email and we'll see if we can get one set up
for you.
The Sopwith type also works well with SPAD's, early Fokker EIII's and other rotary engine planes. The Mercedes type works
for the Fokker DVII, DVIII, Albatros, and Pfalz. The four blade for the FE8 also looks good on the SE5, the Brisfit, and
other later models that had four blades.
The Watts model was added for between the war types such as the Hawker Fury and early Spitfires and Hurricanes.
International Shipping click here
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charlie@manzanolaser.com (505) 286-2640
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